Surrealism returns to New York. The clothing brand launched by original fashion surrealist Elsa Schiaparelli is moving for the first time in 60 years outside of its original Maison located in the heart of Paris on Place VendÃ´me. It will be a bit of a homecoming as retailer Tony Fifth Avenue made the designs 90 years ago, when the Italian designer launched her eponymous brand until it closed in 1954.
The brand is on a growth path currently being pushed back by trendy American designer Daniel Roseberry. Her designs adorn celebrities such as Lady Gaga, who wore a Schiaparelli dress with a gold dove at the inauguration of President Joe Biden. Operating as a haute couture house when it was relaunched, former design director Bertrand Guyon had started experimenting with ready-to-wear styles, particularly in knits, until his departure in 2019. Roseberry is credited with for taking the motifs of the house – the body and sound of many rooms – and reimagining them on modern designs. The codes recall Schiaparelli’s relationship with figures of the surrealist and dada movement such as Salvador Dali, Man Ray, Marcel Duchamp and Alfred Stieglitz.
However, it’s a fitting place because almost from the time the designer launched her fashion house in 1931, Bergdorf Goodman had carried the collection until it closed in 1954. According to Darcy Penick, president of Bergdorf Goodman, the connection of the two entities took over when Diego Della Valle announced that he would relaunch the house in 2012. Then, in 2018, Schiaparelli launched its ready-to-wear collection with the retailer, becoming the first partner to wear the new division . âWe were both convinced that Bergdorf Goodman would be the ideal home for ready-to-wear collections in the United States. Seeing Daniel’s incredible vision – his delicate balance between heritage and modern artistic expression – has reinforced our belief that BG’s client will be delighted with Schiaparelli’s presence, âshe said.
The designated store will reside on the fourth floor of Bergdorf in space. Artistic director Daniel Roseberry collaborated with architect Daniel Romualdez and was inspired by the original decor of the Schiaparelli salons in Place VendÃ´me, the fruit of his collaborations with artists Jean-Michel Franck and Giacometti. It will not only resemble the headquarters of the Parisian House but will offer a similar experience.
âOne of the reasons that Schiaparelli was drawn to Bergdorf Goodman is the unique standard of customer relations that our sales team maintains. The level of direct and one-on-one customer experience is unprecedented; we are able to combine a traditional luxury experience with innovative digital touchpoints, âsaid Penick.
While the traditional rendezvous of the fashion house recalls Elsa’s reign, Roseberry and her team are adding a strong 21st century digital presence. âEvery aspect of Schiaparelli’s momentum has continued to build our enthusiasm for this partnership. From catwalks to social media, Schiaparelli’s growth trajectory is appealing in its unique ability to balance both avant-garde creativity and true luxury, âshe continued.
The new salon will be stocked with the Fall 2021 collection and will feature all facets of the ready-to-wear collection, including suits, dresses, outerwear, energetic knits and signature accessories, in particular. eye-catching jewelry, all with a surreal twist. A selection of evening dresses inspired by the brand’s Haute Couture looks will also be offered, designed exclusively for the retailer. It subtly hints at the decades-old practice of American retailers of recreating Paris Haute Couture looks for their customers in their homes with advice from the houses themselves. Three windows on the Fifth Avenue side will highlight the new collection and recreate the codes of the house.
Penick believes this is the next step in their successful partnership. âThis is not our first collaboration with Schiaparelli, and we are delighted to welcome them again with the first permanent store outside his Place VendÃ´me home. A deeply artistic goal, unparalleled craftsmanship and a decidedly unique point of view are through -the lines between what our client expects and what Schiaparelli offers, âshe said, noting the collection’s signature codes full of character and modernity.
Of the partnership, Roseberry explained it this way. âOur mission is to build an alternative Couture house, and our luxury ready-to-wear line gives us the opportunity to do so. We care about how people see, digest and interpret Couture across the world. by Schiaparelli Our Ready To Wear The Porter Proposal is a way for us to balance Couture’s dreamlike storytelling with commercial credibility. This incredible retail partner understands our mission and provides the perfect environment.
The brand’s connection to New York dates back to Elsa Schiaparelli’s life there with her questionable husband, Wilhelm de Kerlor. She will make round trips after the birth of her daughter and the marriage will end before settling permanently in Paris in 1922. Inspired by Paul Poiret but lacking formal training in fashion design, the aristocrat of Roman origin has channeled his love of the arts, especially surrealism on clothing. His trompe l’oeil techniques on the mesh launched his career.
At the same time back in Paris, the Schiaparelli salons will remain open to private customers, who will be able to purchase Haute Couture as well as ready-to-wear, accessories and special capsule collections. Namely, on display after the launch of the Spring 2022 collection in Paris, Roseberry explored the quiet side of Madame Schiaparelli’s life and designs. It offers beach and weekend ready dividers, such as a group of red / white and blue / white stripes inspired by the umbrellas of French and Italian beach clubs.
“We strive to provide our clients with moments that are exceptional experiences. The Schiaparelli Salons provide a unique, warm and welcoming environment while immersing visitors in the incredible worlds of Elsa Schiaparelli and her friends – Dali, Man Ray, Giacometti, Jean-Michel Franck for example. There is always something new to discover at the Salons “, explains Delphine Bellini, CEO of Schiaparelli.